We left Maheshwar at 7.00 am on 6th may. I was very optimistic regarding the route and the comfort it would offer me. I preferred to stick to the suggested route of SH 211 and move on to NH3.
I moved to Dhule via Chalisgoan. Eighteen kms before reaching Chalisgaon we had to traverse through ghat. The jam on the ghat halted us for around 1 hr 45minutes.
I was amazed even though I was held up. On the ghat road, we were lined up on one side and the opposite traffic was moving one by one. We got our turn and we moved on. There was no overtaking to quicken the jam. The responsible behavior of trucks, busses, even cars was very interesting to see. One careless overtaking could have increased the jam several fold. There was no police but we ourselves managed for over two hours. Later I knew it was a normal process of conducting the traffic on jams.
This attitude was similar in most parts of my journey. Sadly, such careless overtaking during jams seemed to be the legacy of Mumbai and the neighborhood.
Later on NH 3 the drive was smooth but not continuous. Roads under construction provided diversions at several places with dangerous and inconspicuous speed breakers. Traversing though trucks was not a pleasant experience. The local trucks drive with attitude and it takes efforts to avoid dents. Yet we had to pay toll of Rs 67 after at Chalisgoan bypass for under construction roads. It was like spending oranges on a patient in ICU.
I had to wait for a good petrol station for filling but I had to refill almost on emergency with only 50kms fuel to spare. Bypass roads, road under constructions do not allow easy access to petrol stations. I had to fill ordinary petrol by paying in cash. I knew that credit and debit cards do not work on high ways.
We moved into MP without noticing much change. Palasner had a jam. Local drivers suggested a detour to Sendhwa. We survived the jam and took the Sendhwa bypass. It was a good road, smooth, lesser traffic and no tollgates. It has become a habit that if we travel smoothly on roads for 10 kms, we feel indebted and wait for a toll booth to repay the debt. It was a long-long smooth drive. We started enjoying MP roads.
At Tikri bypass we had to pay Rs 57 and learned that I have to use the road only for 3 kms before I turn toward Maheswar. I felt bad to spend at much for 3 kms. Yet I was happy that I recovered enough extravagance, already.
After turning 13 kms from NH 3, we reached Maheshwar at 2.30 pm. The total distance was 320kms, with average moving speed 50.4 kmph, average speed 35.25 kmph, total time of 9 hrs, moving time of 6.2 hrs, max speed of 119 kms/hr. gaining a peak elevation 1557 mts. Idle time was on 1.5 hrs jam, 1 hour for lunch, fueling and three halts.
We stayed in Narmada resort run by MP tourism. It is on the banks of River Narmada. We stayed in air-conditioned tents. It is a beautiful accommodation. Tent from out side but had all the comforts and privacy of a suite. The resort is huge place touching the river. The resort has lovely gardens and laws, courteous people and good food. It scores four out of five. We rested on the day of arrival. On the succeeding days we had been to Mandu and Bagh caves.
Maheshwar to Mandu
Next day we set out for Mandu, said to be around 40 kms from Maheshwar. The day before we spoke to a senior guide Mr Tiwari who deputed his junior Bablu Srivastav to accompany us to Mandu and Bagh caves. As usual we left Hotel at 7 am to reach Mandu at 8.30 am. We left Maheshwar, on SH1 drove for 13 kms and turned on to NH 3 at Dhanmod. On NH 3 we drove for about 5 kms, at Hotel Plash took a left turn on SH31 towards Gujri.
In between, we were eager to turn left and the locals warned us that it is a katcha road and the better road was ahead. We corrected our mistake. Least we imagined that the day later we were to travel by the same road for Bagh caves.
The Dhar-Mandav road took us to Mandu. In between we had to pay a toll of Rs 18. In the last stretch we had some ghat section. The roads were narrow. There were trucks to be careful with while intersecting or overtaking. Most trucks were compassionate to small vehicles. Road surface was good, at certain villages, we could find cemented roads for 3 to 4 kms.
Bablu was to meet us at the central point at Mandu. We recognized each other unmistakably at Jami Masjid. Mandu calls it self a city of music and romance. It is the romance of Baj Bahadur, Rupmati and the opulence of Afghan architecture. The monuments are witness to the extravagance of the regality between 11 century and 16th century AD.
Bablu took us around Roopmati Mahal, Baj Bahadur Mahal, Hosang Shah Tomb, Darya Khan Tomb, Malik Mughis Masjid, Jamu Masjid, Jahaj Mahal, Shiva’s Temple
By one in the afternoon, we were tired, hungry and wanting to retire. MP tourism has a Hotel at Mandu. Hotel Malwa has excellent ambience and good food to offer. I drove back to Maheshwar.
The entire journey was 176 kms with average speed of 30 kmph, climbed an elevation of 1627 mts. It took 9 hours with 5 ½ hours running time.
Maheshwar to Bagh Caves
The day later we left for Bagh caves. Our guide was from Mandu. He requested us to pick him up at Brahmanpuri on way to Bagh. We left our hotel at 7 am.
From Maheshwar it was 13 kms on SH1 and turned to NH 3. Straight three kms we turned left to Bharmanpuri. From Brahmanpuri took MDR to Manwar on SHW 36 for 35 kms then turned left at a board showing bagh caves 40 km. The road took us to Dehri on SHW 39 to Bagh village. Into the village and out 4 kms we were at Bagh caves.
It was all a 143 kms drive on different terrains with speed varying between 20 kmph to 80 kmph; most of the time it was 20 kmph. A distance of 143 kms took four and half hours to reach. It really takes good reason for some one to travel this route to see less known rock cut caves.
For the first time we felt that, the guide is also doubling as local security for us. The last 40 kms belt is famous for the Bagh and Tanda communities: traditionally known as dacoit tribes. Until recently, Bagh tribes used bow and arrow on strangers. Least hurled stones at cars that come their way and looted. How recent? The answer was neither convincing nor comforting.
Bagh caves is managed by the Archeological Survey of India. The monument is very well maintained. It looked clean, may be due to scanty tourist traffic. On the way to caves there is a museum with frescos restored from the caves. On our way our guide Babloo invited a local boy, conversant with caves.
The caves are at a height of around 40 meters. The steps leading into caves connect a bridge over River Baghini. It was a wonderful sigh. One can imagine the magnificent location the caves must have enjoyed during 7 century with hills, river, forest and pristine atmosphere for meditation and monastic living.
Bagh caves are a cluster of seven caves each used as a monastery and shrine. Five caves have stupas. One cave has painting in plaster on pillars and three other have paintings on wall. The ceiling is painted orange. The colors are dark even till to date. Some of the paintings are restored and displayed in the caves, at the entrance and at the museum down below.
Cave 2 has Buddha, Bodhisatva and Padmapani carved. Cave 4 has paintings. The entrance had some Hindu gods carved after 7 century AD. We photographed the entire cave cluster. Sadly, there was power cut during our visit. The power would come back only at 4 pm. No way we could wait for three hours and get late on strange roads.
I had to photograph objects that I couldn’t see. I had a small torch. I focused the torch on the object, which made a beam of 2” dia. I focused my camera lens on that spot, composed my imaginary object and clicked with a flash. I got some photos, head cut in some images, lower part cut or partly composed object. With series of trials I was getting some good photos. I was sure that this may be my only chance to photograph. It was now or never. It took 90 minutes to cover the caves.
Now, we have very rare photographs of Bagh caves not know to public, yet. We have photograph of a tunnel leading to Mandu in cave 7, paintings on pillars, stupas of different shapes and similar.
It was a great photo adventure in shooting at low and no light conditions.
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