Udaygiri and Vidisha

Around 3 pm we went to Sanchi Stupa. It was one kilometer from the Hotel. Hot with 42 degrees centigrade, we were sweating out under the Sun. The monument was a great sight. At the entrance, there is a Bo tree which is characteristic of any Buddhist shrine. The relics are kept at aspirate place for people to worship. The actual shrine is organized by a trust jointly by Sri Lanka and India. The stupa does not contain any relics, now.

For the next one hour we were exploring the length and breadth of the monument. Our guide was explaining the nuances of gates, releifs, inscriptions and interpretations. I was listening and selectively documenting.

We saw the main stupa and stupa 2, monastery 45, temple and other minor structure in the vicinity.

In fact this was the chosen destination of this voyage. The master route was drawn with Sanchi as destination with several other via points. In a way, the mission reached its destination; the later part of the route was withdrawal, homeward.

Next day by 7 am we were out on our journey to Vidisha. We had Bunty as our guide today. What a combination ? Earlier it was Babloo now Bunty; very filmi indeed. Rakesh had a family emergency so he deputed Bunty (Chandrama Giri) as our guide.

Firstly, we drove towards Udayagiri. Around twenty kms drive on narrow roads passing through villages and farms took us to Udayagiri. These Caves and monuments were guarded by fencing by Archaeological Survey. Yet, the villagers on the other side of monument used the expanse of land between caves for various daily chores.

These were a set of 19 caves. Cave 1 being on the hill facing sunrise. Cave 3 to 6 and cave 18 and 19 had sculptures in it. Sleeping Vishnu, Mukha linga, Varaha, Nandi in Greek form are salient features. Cave 1 was farther on an elevation of 411 mts. Local ASI guard helped us by opening certain cave doors. We had a detailed glimpse of IV and V century Hindu style architecture at Vidisha.

We were now due for our hard earned break fast. Zilebi, bajjia, kachori and tea. We had them all at a road side stall. Looking at the location, we preferred having break fast in car. Zelebi as breakfast, felt strange in mouth as well as down below. Stomach empty so far did not object the payload.

We drove through busy Vidisha city roads and found our way into a Museum. This was one of the great discoveries of the voyage. No one can estimate the rich repository of heritage the museum has. There was none to sell entry tickets, allow or stop us from taking photos. With our guide, we went berserk exploring the rich sculptures of Vidsha in the Jain and Vaishnav tradition belonging to II to IV century AD.

I took photos as though in trance not bothering my knowledge about the objects. Documentation was my prime concern. I could study, research and understand once I am at home. We left the museum with loads of rare photos of characteristic Vidishan architecture.

Our guide brought us back to Sanchi and left us at the Sanchi museum. This was more organized. We were not allowed our cameras for some unknown reason. The objects were familiar and had their own splendor and appeal. It was an extension of our field visit to the Stupa.

With late lunch, I had the rest of the day for working on photos and travel notes.

Segment III: Maheshwar to Sanchi

I had a sleepless night. All of a sudden, I was growing tense and stressed. Till then, I was driving safe and comfortable. I feared that, with each day of safe driving am I increasing the probability of a mishap in future? Probability supports my theory and conscience argues.

Generally, I speak to myself to ease tension. In fact, I am deliberately more careful at instances that are normally performed intuitively. I needed to be more alert in maneuvers of speeding and overtaking with more concern for two wheelers on busy roads.

I advised my self on the change in the alertness as the first thing at the wheel. Every drive I start with vocal rendition of the voyage and the determination to accomplish safely. I was composed at the driver’s seat; the onward drive was comfortable and enjoyable throughout.

I think such confusions on safety concerns should be normal but not discussed. If that is the case, my stress management method may help few long distance travelers.

This was the one of the most comfortable segment in the entire journey.

I got the car washed early in the morning by paying Rs 20 to the gardener. At 7.00 am we were all set to leave Maheshwar. GPS was set for Sanchi and the car rolled off. Up to Devass the drive was very familiar. We were driving for the third consecutive day on that route. After 13 kms on the SH1 we started racing on NH3.

The chartered route was to follow NH3 up to Indore via Mhow and move on to NH86 to Bhopal. Popularly called as the AB road, the Agra Bhopla Road was very good. We were fed on to the bypass at Indore and Devas and Bhopal. This way we could avoid most of the city traffic. The diversions to the bypass were very smooth as guided by GPS.

The Devas bypass was a toll free plaza ; not surprisingly under construction. By June 2011 end I am sure the cars have to pay some toll. At the next Devass bypass plaza we had to pay Rs 24 fee. The Bhopal corridor had few more tolls. The first toll plaza with Rs 32 and the second at Sehore bypass with Rs 19. Finally, close to Bhopal we had to pay Rs 15. No regrets, the road was worth every rupee spent. Road travel in Madhya Pradesh is cheaper that at Maharashtra.

Just before Indore we halted at a road side hotel to eat and load refreshments. we had samosas, bhajias and fruits. We made it sumptuous in quantity to last up to late afternoon. The samosa was sweetish as against the popular Punjabi version, I did not complain; nor argued whether it was the intended taste or the contribution of a stale potato. My wife was very accommodative, she left the samosas and the discourse, all to myself.

The entire stretch of road, up to Bhopal is complete and very comfortable. This was really, the most enjoyable part of the drive so far and also proved t be so for the rest of the journey as well.

From Bhopal the Airport bypass took us to the Vidisha road. This road was to deliver us at Sanchi 40 kms form Bhopal. We could not avoid the unavoidable. We were caught in the city traffic. The insipient bad Mumbai diver in me found a match at Bhopal. Driving was bad, drivers were bad, traffic sense was bad and I was quiet at home.

In the process, we missed a turn under the fly over and went ahead. Corrected our mistake, took a U-turn and caught the Vidisha road. Shortly I was crossing the Tropic of Cancer. I could have easily missed the board. I knew that I was closing in on Tropic of Cancer. We stopped and took some pictures. At around 2.15 pm on the desolate road, I was feeling uncomfortable halting.

The tachometer showed 1500 kms jut before moving into Gateaway Retreat at Sanchi.

A total distance of 337 kms, max speed of 103 kmph, total time of 6 hrs and moving time of 5 hrs 29 minutes, average speed of 55 kmph and average moving speed of 61.5 kmph, max elevation of 551 mts. We crossed The Tropic of Cancer 13 kms before Sanchi on SH 211 at 2.15 pm on 06 May 2011.

Gateway Retreat was the finest of MPTDC hotels so far. It was a 3 star property, very professionally managed. It was very well maintained displaying great ambiance. It can be rated four on a scale of five. Food was good and of uniform taste as at all MPTDC Hotels.

We were not very keen on food. We could not have morning breakfast at hotels; we were too early for them. We always left before 7 am. We could hardly get Tea and may be a little courtesy snack on which we could not cultivate any opinion. Whatever we ate as breakfast elsewhere was kept sumptuous. Lunch used to be notional, because it was delayed. Fruits were available on board always; fresh and abundant. In the second half of the day, eating was sparse. We ate fruits, vegetable salads and soups for dinner before 8.00 pm. This routine helped us have a comfortable tummy all over the journey. Good stomach; trust me my friends, helps in more than one way when you are out for so many days and at so many places. I may be wrong only if you have a strong formidable stomach and you are out on a gastronomic rampage.

After checking in we requested the reception for a guide. Now we knew that a guide is quintessential in strange land for local navigation and security; let alone heritage wisdom. Rakesh met us and agreed to be with us for the day and the next guiding us to Sanchi stupa, Vidisha and Udaygiri for a fee of Rs 750.

…to be continued